Gothic Glam: An interview with Alston Stephanus about his creative fan designs

Dewi Magazine

 

How did you start your accessories business? I started it last year in October (2005.) It began unintentionally. A very good friend of mine, who is a designer, asked me to make a few accessories for his fashion show. He thought that I could create accessories based on my personal style and have it be suitable for his upcoming collection, which was a combination of the glamorous and the bazaar.  Since then, I’ve felt the need to challenge myself in the fashion industry.

Did you learn designing formally? No. I am self-taught. Since I was young, I’ve been designing accessories, but it was only ever for friends and myself.

Why are you interested in making fans? A fan is an accessory that cannot be separated from fashion.

Your fans look very glamorous. Is that what you want to point out? Yes, my style is Gothic Glam. My fans are daring accessories, much more than just your everyday wear. They would be suitable for a gala dinner or perhaps a fashion show.

What materials do you use? I use Swarovski crystals, French lace, and feathers from peacocks, ostriches, and swans. For the fan frame, I use brass and silver from Yogyakarta (a special region in Java, Indonesia, known for their filigree jewelry.)

How long does it take to make one fan? Anywhere from 1 to 3 weeks, depending on the complexity of the design.

What kind of difficulties do you find when making fans? At the moment, I am grateful I haven’t found many difficulties in designing fans yet. It seems like the ideas just pour out of me! For instance, when I’m beading, it’s possible that an idea for my next design will suddenly come to me. I immediately draw it on paper so that I can apply it on my next work. I find that many fresh ideas can emerge while making fans.

Who are most of your accessories made for? My work is commonly used for weddings, but my accessories have also been used by well-known figures like Vina Panduwinata (an Indonesian singer/songwriter) for her latest album cover and Siti Nurhaliza (a Malaysian producer/singer/songwriter and TV presenter) in one of her concerts. Although, I would have to say that I am most proud of my collaborative efforts with Anne Avantie (a contemporary kebaya designer.) Together we designed the National Costume for Nadine Chandrawinata, the 2005 Indonesian Miss Universe competitor. The look won second place in the Miss Universe 2006 National Costume competition in Los Angeles, California.

What are your design inspirations? Actually, I love animals, specifically peacocks. I take into consideration the physic of the feathers and I start to learn their characteristics and behavior. Hence, some of the philosophies of my fans are taken from the peacock’s composition and walk. I think this is why my designs look, in a sense naturally messy, yet beautiful.

What is the price range of your fans? They can be priced from 2.5-10 million Indonesian Rupiah ($200 - $825 USD) because I use Swarovski crystals imported from Austria.

What are your ambitions? Honestly, I push myself to a certain point, but I also take chance into account. I believe there is a natural direction that I am supposed to take and everything happens for a reason. If my designs go international, I would be very happy with that.

Photographer: Irvan Arryawan, Clara